Regency Lover's Eye Jewelry

watercolor on ivory with topaz stones c. 1800

Eye miniatures were a fad in Georgian England for a short time around the turn of the 19th century. They were popularized by the Prince of Wales and his infamous love affair with Maria Fitzherbert. He sent her a small portrait of only his right eye. It must have been convincing because she agreed to marry him, even though their union was immediately void. In return, she had a similar eye miniature made for him.

These emotionally charged pieces were given as striking tokens of affection.

watercolor on ivory, half seed pearls c. 1800

Lover’s eyes were painted in watercolor on ivory and were only 1 or 2 centimeters. They displayed only one eye and sometimes with an eyebrow and hair. They were often set with gems or pearls. Lover’s eyes could be ornate or simple, and were made into rings, lockets, pendants, and brooches.

watercolor on ivory, gilt metal c. 1800-1830

Eye miniatures were a discreet way to show admiration, love, or lust. These were gifts only an intimate acquaintance—a lover, spouse, or family member—would recognize it. Lover’s eyes made it possible to display affection while concealing the identity of the lover.

In this era, looks were more easily exchanged than words because of the social rules that limited the public interactions between men and women.

The Victoria and Albert

Ginny Redington Daws and Olivia Collings, Georgian Jewellry, ACC Art Books, 2019